The lash Blog
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I have spent my fair share on different glues, nano misters, different brands of lashes, primers, and anything else I could find that would help my clients keep their lashes on longer. I used to believe that it was always the clients fault for loosing their extensions prematurely, as I thought maybe I hadn't educated them well enough on how to take care of their new lashes. I soon realized that this was not the case as it started happening to every client! It turned out a glue I had bought wasn't very strong and therefore caused the lashes to fall off within only a few days to a week of eachother. Thanks to all my fellow lash artists out there, and personal experience, here is what I recommend to having the best possible retention.
Squeaky Clean Lashes: Cleanse the lashes before you start. I prefer to use an oil free makeup remover, as is cleanses the lashes while also being gentle around the eye area (This is just one way to prevent eye irritation as oppose to other methods of cleansing the lashes). I then follow with a primer to get any residual oils off. Then, LET IT DRY!
SHAKE YOUR GULE – it is SO important to thoroughly shake your glue. Similar to nail polish, the glue separates significantly. I even shake it between new drops of glue. If you don’t shake it enough, then the first drops will be extremely toxic and could cause your clients to react. At the same time, you are throwing off the mixture of the remaining glue, diluting its potency. Glues are specially formulated to be shaked VIGOROUSLY! It is best to shake your glue for 30 seconds to ensure it is mixed properly.
Fresh Glue Drops: Use a Jade stone or a Lash ring and dip your lash in a J motion into the adhesive. Ideally you will have a very small bead of glue at the base of the eyelash extension. I find that my glue ring is convenient and speeds up my process, unless I'm applying volume lashes. The fans used in volume lashes are held in such a way it is almost impossible to dip them in the glue the correct way unless on a flat surface such as a jade stone.
Apply From The Top: Apply lashes to the BASE of the natural lash. Sounds obvious, but after teaching students, I have noticed that most of us try to come in at a parellel angle to the natural lash. Try coming straight down at an angle and focus on the base of the natural lash. The faster you get the lash on, the better the bond. It's important not to fuss around with the lashes directly after applying them. Everytime you play with the lash after you have let it go, you are weakening the bond.
Aftercare: I have created an aftercare sheet I give to every client after a session. One of the most important things to do when you have eyelash extensions is to wash them daily to remove any residue or oils that could break down the adhesive faster then normal. Check out our 'DIY Lash Shampoo" blog to learn and teach your clients an easy way to clean their lashes. Whatever you do, you need to express to your clients how important it is for them to wash their lashes, otherwise none of the above matters. Instruct them to use clean fingers or cosmetic sponges; never ever use cotton as this can actually catch and pull extensions.
Trouble Shooting With Clients: Even after all of the above, occasionally clients will lose their lashes faster than anticipated. Ask them how soon they noticed it? If it is within the first 48 hours, it was probably the glue not curing properly. Ask them if they workout – sweat contains oil. Do they have naturally oily skin? Do they use oil-free moisturizer or face wash? Oil is usually the culprit, but it could also be rubbing (allergy season), sleeping habits, or perhaps they have a tendency to touch their eyes and face without realizing it.
Morgan McGrath, Owner and Founder of Ida Jane. Ida Jane’s goal is to inspire eyelash artists and make lash life fun! We are lash ARTISTS who educate and make the lash world a better place!